Vantec - Network adapter - USB 3. Vantec - network adapter - USB 3. SoundBot SB Bluetooth 4. With Wi-Fi dual band speeds of Mbps 2. Upgrade to AC performance: today's households are connecting more devices than ever before - with more and more I phones, Androids, tablets, and laptops laying around in any given home, It's important that each device gets the speed and coverage It Zonet ZEWP - network adapter more.
I have included a picture of the bike. As you can see the connection is temporary. All I need now is the correct size box to finish it up nicely. Thanks for helping to extend the life of these old engines. Shop On-Line at emona. Free software development system and low-cost in-circuit programming.
Variety of hardware, project boards and kits to suit your application. PC connectivity. Recently, I was fortunate to find an old battery and I rebuilt it using high-quality alkaline D cells. Some might say, why not use rechargeables but these batteries have such a long there is no path to cause a protective device, fuse, circuit breaker, etc, to operate.
I am planning to connect the metal housing of one of the splitters to my house protective earth, so as to provide this path. Phil Andrews, Adelaide, SA. Mechanical data switching technology has been available forever — we used to have one 20 years ago for two computers running one parallel port printer.
It annoyed us then, so we upgraded to one that detected a signal and changed automatically. Most people just change the USB cable over and shelf life that I typically get three to four years before replacement is due. The only points to note are to not glue the top flap down; it is held in place by the radio battery plug.
I use thin polystyrene packing to eliminate the possibility of shorting between the female plug and the batteries. Andrew Prest, Sunshine, Vic. That project really does belong in the s and in popular mechanics, not in an electronics magazine. I am sure most all? Comment: it is true that we could have come up with a more complicated electronic version but we wanted to keep the cost down.
However, colour of wire not withstanding, the device is electrically safe. All connections are insulated, the wire is 10A and mains-rated and there is even plastic under all the starters and mains terminal blocks, as outlined in the article. Your readers, who are complaining, are writing as if I had used bare exposed copper wire with no insulation at all!
Jeff Thomas writes in the December Mailbag of all sorts of horrors associated with this project, not just the wiring — he seems to hate the very concept itself and every aspect of it!
He almost goes so far as to say that the project will not work as an exposure method at all. To him and others with similar views, I ask you to have a look at the accompanying high-res photo which shows the results of using systems for purchasers of these cars. At least the power from these would offset some of the power consumed by recharging these cars and help cut emissions from coal-fired power stations. John Vance, via email. It most certainly does work and it works very well indeed.
In particular, I refer to his paragraphs on being realistic, using commonsense and that I am the only one who will ever work on the unit. I would like to thank him for defending my idea and bringing some logical thinking to the colour-code issue. While Mitsubishi may be putting the iMiEV into low-level production later this year, it is not ever going to be made in Australia. It is slated for initial release in Japan in Mitsubishi ceased all manufacture in Australia in In fact, we have doubts whether the iMiEV will ever go on sale in Australia.
Graeme Rixon, Mosgiel, NZ. Comment: we thought it was great project concept. Just remember: it is easier to criticise an idea than to come up with an original concept. We would hate to have contributors discouraged from submitting articles because they might be criticised. When and if electric cars do go on sale in Australia, a requirement for the prospective purchasers of the cars to also install a home solar system would put the kiss of death on them.
As far as we know, it is the first such road-registered DIY conversion in Australia and it is probably one of the first in the world. We commented that all the vehicle conversions on display appeared to be based on DC motors with wound fields and ratings up to about 70kW. But we have always felt that the ideal conversion should be based on a 3-phase induction motor, as in hybrid electric vehicles and in larger commercial electric vehicles as well as modern diesel locomotives.
So when we heard that Malcolm Faed was engaged in a conversion which would use an industrial grade 3-phase induction motor and matching drive the inverter , we watched his internet blog with keen interest.
He dropped into our offices to show it off. It is based on a Toyota Hilux Xtracab utility, a rugged commercial vehicle with an aluminium tray body with plenty of space for the battery bank. To look at the finished vehicle, the conversion looks surprisingly straightforward although Malcolm would have undoubtedly spent hundreds of hours thinking about each step in the process before actually doing it.
The conversion can be summarised as having a whopping orange induction motor mounted in the now very spacious engine bay and the battery bank and inverter system mounted on the rear tray under a large canopy. It shows a gross vehicle mass GVM of a little over two tonnes. That is not to say that the motor is silent because once it is above walking speed, the motor can certainly be heard — and nor is it particularly quiet.
Inset top right is the ratings plate for the ASEA motor. The execution proved to be a tad more difficult! Most readers will be aware that the speed of an induction motor is more or less locked to the frequency of the AC driving voltage.
Hence, a 4-pole induction motor connected to a 50Hz mains supply will normally run at about RPM; slightly less than the so-called synchronous speed of RPM. Incidentally, the synchronous speed of an induction motor can be calculated using the formula: rail of V. This is fed to a Danfoss VLT frequency converter intended to drive 3-phase induction motors up to 48kW peak.
Why is this cunning? What Malcolm has done is to bypass the internal 3-phase bridge rectifier and feed the frequency converter with DC from the batteries instead. For charging from VAC, the battery bank is split into 12 banks of four 48V and one bank of two 24V and these banks are charged by 13 intelligent switchmode chargers. Similarly, a 2-pole induction motor will run at about RPM, again slightly less than the synchronous speed of RPM.
Hence, in order to drive the motor over a wide range of RPM, the frequency converter must have a similarly wide output. In the case of the Danfoss VLT used here, the drive frequency is configured to vary from 0. The VLT is able to work in open or closed-loop mode and has a speed pickup input. This is looking across the battery bank with the Danfoss VLT controller under his right elbow.
Total Provides regenerative braking. The VLT uses a bank of high-voltage insulated gate bipolar transistors IGBTs in a 6-way bridge to give a 3-phase drive to the 4-pole motor which is delta-connected. That might seem low but remember that such a motor can deliver at least three times its rated power for short periods.
The motor sits in the engine bay of the Toyota Hilux in virtually splendid isolation. The only modification is that it has been fitted with a standard 12V radiator fan which is controlled by a thermostatic switch on the motor body. The fan replaces the internal fan, which was ineffective at low speeds and too noisy at the higher speeds the motor is now required to run at.
Even so, the 12V fan does not cut in frequently and would only be expected to be running when the Hilux is climbing a steep hill. The motor drives the differential of the Hilux directly; there is no intermediate gearbox. However, Malcolm has increased the diff ratio to 5. The engine braking is an siliconchip. It is not possible to inadvertently throw the car into reverse while under way. This is prevented by a key interlock which must be used to change motor direction.
Above it is the blue vacuum reservoir, included so that the vacuum pump, adjacent to the power brake booster, does not cycle frequently. The vacuum pump is fitted with a gauge — just to show it is working. Centre right of the photo circled is the throttle potentiometer. But since the motor is being driven by the rear wheels, it also provides worthwhile regeneration, delivering significant current to the batteries on long downhill runs. The battery charging evidently takes place via the substrate reverse diodes in the IGBTs.
A meter inside the vehicle monitors the battery drain and the regeneration. Regeneration is a particular advantage of using a 3-phase motor and one which cannot easily be provided in conversions using series DC motors.
Ultimately, an AC conversion such as this should be very quiet because the motor is not subject to the high frequency pulse drive normally employed in DC conversions. The 3-phase sinewave is synthesised by higher frequency switchmode pulsing so high frequency whistling is evident from outside the vehicle. This is provided by a 12V SLA battery, identical to those sitting in the rear tray.
Both their floating outputs are connected in parallel to charge the battery. As well as lighting, it also provides power to a 12V vacuum pump which runs the power brake booster. It also drives a 12V blower for the ceramic core heater. The heater is run from the V supply and provides demisting for the windscreen. There is no air-conditioning for the driver and passengers though That might be in a subsequent EV conversion perhaps.
Driving it Driving the converted Hilux is a bit of an art because the throttle and braking response needs to be learned. Having said that, the vehicle evidentsiliconchip. However the battery drain goes up alarmingly at these times, rapidly reducing the available capacity. On the level, the car trickles along. Where it is disconcerting is that the motor is not as smooth as you would expect and has significant vibration conducted through the cabin — almost a cogging effect.
This is probably a consequence of the motor being solidly mounted to the chassis without any rubber mounts to provide isolation. Perhaps that might be a later modification. When climbing hills the motor also becomes quite strident — surprisingly so.
We measured a peak of 78dBA inside the cabin. Of course, large 3-phase industrial motors are never silent; it is just that you are seldom aware that they produce any noise since it is normally drowned out by the machinery they are driving.
Overall, we are very impressed with this EV conversion. It is a strong commercial vehicle and should provide good protection in the event of a crash. Even if it rolled over, you could fairly confident that the battery pack would be securely held in place. Having back seats, it also provides for four occupants, something that most prior conversions using SC conventional cars cannot provide. This shot show the Danfoss VLT frequency converter with the top cover removed.
In the foreground you can see the two They occupy the space originally taken up by the V 3-phase rectifier filters. It has settable overload and under-voltage protection and it can be connected to a PC for logging of battery condition. To obtain absolute maximum life from them, it is very important to charge and discharge them properly — and that requires very careful monitoring.
It uses a heavy-duty shunt to monitor charge and discharge currents. All the readings are shown on a backlit 2-line LCD panel and the various modes — and there are many to choose from — are simply selected by pressing a button on an alphanumeric keyboard. A USB connection allows you to log the battery voltage, battery capacity, charge current and many other readings.
We show you how data can be imported into a spreadsheet and graphed on your PC. An audible alarm warns you when the remaining battery capacity drops below a preset percentage. You can then disconnect the load to protect the battery, either manually or automatically via an optional heavy-duty relay. The latter will then reconnect the load after the battery voltage rises to a preset safe level. It can be used with all types of lead acid batteries, including SLA Sealed Lead Acid , deep discharge, etc, or with virtually any type of nickelmetal-hydride NiMH and nickelcadmium Nicad batteries, as long as they are 9V or more.
The micro drives the 2-line LCD panel and polls the alphanumeric keypad to respond to buttons being pressed. REG1 is a buck switch-mode regulator that produces 5V from an input voltage range of around V. The HV suffix in the part number refers to the 60V version of the regulator. When this pin is low, the regulator is enabled; when high, it is disabled.
So the regulator can be turned on by pressing switch S1 on the front panel or turned on by the microcontroller using the digital output at pin 7 RA5.
So to turn on the circuit, you press S1 and the microcontroller starts running its software, after a power-on reset POR. One of the first things the microcontroller does is bring pin 7 low, to keep REG1 on. Note that S1 is also used for bringing the meter out of standby or to reset the software fuse after an overload condition. The key alphanumeric keypad has its rows and columns scanned by the micro.
Diodes D3 to D6 prevent the associated column lines from being shorted if two keys from the same row are pressed simultaneously. Note that if you are driving the relay from more than 12V you will need a dropping resistor.
The optional relay can switch off the load if an over-current or under-voltage condition occurs. We will say more on this later. It is dimmed up and down as required by the firmware. This is used to sense when a USB cable is attached or disconnected.
The voltage developed across the shunt is fed to two MAX high-side differential amplifiers which both a have a gain of Note that the two high-side amplifiers have their inputs cross-connected across the shunt resistor. This means that IC2 senses load current from the battery while IC3 senses charge current.
For higher currents, say up to the A rating of the shunt or even higher in an overload condition, the output of the high-side amplifier will go proportionally higher and will exceed the 5V input limit for the micro. Obviously there are several resistors and links underneath the keypad which must be soldered in before the keypad is fitted. The photo below shows the completed meter PC board sitting inside the plastic case — it roughly occupies this position but is held in place by four Nylon screws through the lid into Nylon spacers.
The two ceramic 15pF capacitors provide the correct loading for the crystal. Begin by installing the wire links. There are 13 of these and they are of varying lengths. In each case, you use tinned copper wire bent to the correct length using pliers. You can straighten the wire by pulling it using a vyse and pliers.
Once the links are in, continue with the resistors. These are of different values and you should check them with a DMM siliconchip. The next thing to do is to solder in the eight diodes. These are of two different types — there are six 1N signal diodes and two 1N Schottky types. The part numbers are marked on the body.
Make sure that they are installed with the correct orientation by referring to the component overlay of Fig. You have two options when it comes to the LCD module. We recommend using the Altronics LCD because it has a backlight which can be turned off. None of the Jaycar backlit modules allow you to turn off the backlight so the Jaycar unit we have specified does not have a backlight.
A single pin connector is required for the Altronics LCD module, while the Jaycar LCD module needs two 7-pin connectors, which mount parallel to and touching each other. Solder in both the appropriate LCD and keypad sockets. Now that the sockets are soldered in, you can solder the corresponding pin strips to the keypad and the LCD module.
These will plug in later. Refer to the photos for guidance. The 8-pin socket for REG1 and the pin socket for IC1 can be soldered in next, making sure that they are correctly oriented. The next thing to do is to solder in the three 2-way terminal blocks. They should face outwards from the PC board to allow cable connection. The 6-way right-angled header used for calibration can also be installed now.
Solder in the two transistors and the two FETs. With their pins oriented in the triangular pattern, these can only go in one way. You can solder the crystal next, as well as the inductor. The inductor mounts horizontally and is secured to the PC board using a cable tie. The variable resistor, which is used to set the contrast of the LCD screen, can go in next. Continue by soldering in the type B USB socket and the piezo buzzer.
Both must be oriented correctly. The keypad plugs in to the 8 pin socket and is secured to the PC board using eight M3 Nylon 5mm screws and four 9mm M3 Nylon spacers. The four mounting holes on the keypad may need to be enlarged to fit the screws, using either a drill or a tapered reamer.
Once that is done, you can install the LCD module. The Jaycar module uses four mounting screws and spacers instead. Surface mount devices Now flip the PC board to the copper side. They are surface-mount devices so you will need a fine tipped soldering iron and some solder wick for removing any solder bridges.
In each case, you should orient the IC over its pads — refer to the component overlay and photos to determine the correct orientation — then one-at-atime, secure each IC with a clothes peg and solder pins 1 and 2 first to anchor the IC.
Remove the peg, then proceed to solder pin 5 followed by the rest of the pins — refer to photo. Repeat for the other IC. With the exception of installing IC1, that completes the construction of the PC board. Before installing the PC board in the siliconchip. The cutout dimensions for the LCD readout suit the recommended Altronics module. If you use the alternate Jaycar module, the cutout will need to be amended to suit. Use the PC board overlay as a guide, as it has the Jaycar module position indicated and is also accurately located by the four mounting screws.
Incidentally, the front panel artwork can be downloaded from www. If it is, you can disconnect power and install IC1 in its socket. If it is not, there is something wrong and you should disconnect power immediately and recheck your soldering and component placement.
You can see how the PC board is installed in its case by referring to the photographs. It is actually mounted in the lid, with three connectors that mate with terminals or the current shunt installed on the sides of the case. In the top right hand corner of the PC board there is a 2-way terminal block that connects to S1 mounted on the lid of the case. The pair of 2-way terminal blocks on the bottom left corner of the PC board accept power and connect to the current shunt note that one of the GND connections is not used , as shown in Fig.
Finally, the 6-way right angled header forming CON4 is for calibration and connects to the panel mount 6-way terminal barrier on the left side of the case, as shown in the photograph.
The connecting cable can be made from a 20cm length of rainbow cable or similar lengths of individual hookup wire.
The external GND connection, a gold-plated, metalbody banana socket with black polarity ring, is on the left side of the case. Exact position is unimportant.
Follow the drilling guide in Fig. If you use another current shunt, you may need to modify the hole positions. The two terminals of the current shunt then connect to the right-hand 2-way terminal block in the bottom left corner of the PC board CON3. Make sure you connect them the right way around as shown in Fig. Important Note: you should use a 10cm length of 24 x 0.
The software takes into account the resistance of this 10cm length. Once the PC board is installed in the case you can screw on the lid. That completes construction of the Smart Battery Capacity Meter. Resistor Colour Codes o o o o o o siliconchip. Contributions from readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
The timer IC1 produces a positive pulse about once every 60s to clock a divider IC2. The threshold and trigger inputs at pin 6 and 2 monitor the capacitor voltage. So the pin 3 output goes high 12V and low 0V repeatedly as it charges and discharges the capacitor.
It needs to be wired to a suitable USB socket. Jeff Teasdale, Christchurch, NZ. This prevents multiple clocking of the counter at the positive edge of the clock signal. This ensures a sufficient reset pulse for IC2. The circuit uses two op amps, each with a gain of 23, giving a total gain of over The capacitor values in the circuit were chosen to limit the frequency response below 34kHz. The latter gives a visible indication that the circuit is receiving and transmitting a signal.
The circuit is powered with a 12V plugpack which delivers about 16V DC. The receiver is quite sensitive and will receive reliably at distances of over four metres. However, if the distance between the remote and the receiver is too close, the receiver overloads and becomes unreliable. Jack Holliday, Nathan, Qld. But now there are four more reasons to send in your circuit idea. Ordinary spring-loaded mousetraps can often have the bait taken by mice without being sprung.
Trying to make the trigger more sensitive often results in the trap being very difficult to set and making it quite risky to human fingers! This circuit solves that problem by making the trap very sensitive and never failing to catch a mouse when it touches the bait. It is easy to set into the bargain. In brief, the trigger rod is replaced by a trigger plate which is actuated by a thread pulled by a small motor.
A hair-trigger wire above the bait is positioned so that the mouse cannot help touching it when it takes a nibble. The hair trigger is shown on the circuit as switch S1 and when it is closed, it pulls up the base of Q2 which then turns on Q1.
This turns on Q4 which drives the motor. In the meantime, the mouse should be caught fast. The circuit is powered from two AA cells.
Richard van Wegen, Hawthorndene, SA. It can also simulate a high loop resistance, depending on the setting of VR1. The multimeter should be set to a suitable DC current range to monitor the current.
Most devices have internal PNP transistors and deliver about pulses per revolution from two channels. The two channel outputs are out of phase to enable rotation direction sensing. There is also a third Z channel which produces one short duration zero point pulse per turn.
This circuit allows testing of the encoders by making the pulse channels verifiable by the human eye. The ICs are used as dividers. Their carry outputs pin 12 are cascaded and three LEDs provide indication that , and pulses have been counted.
The minimum supply voltage is around 2. This regulates the bias current of D1 and D2. In turn, the regulated current from the collector of Q1 biases D3 and D4. Resistor R3 provides initial bias for Q1 to help the circuit start, since both transistors would otherwise be off at power-up. The exact value of R3 is not critical except that at the maximum supply voltage it must not conduct more than the current programmed by R2. Because the bias currents in the circuit are regulated, it is possible to calculate the programmed current as a function of R1 and R2 to a reasonable degree of accuracy using the known characteristics of the diodes and transistors used.
The choice of bias currents for the diodes does not appreciably affect the degree of regulation. This allows the designer to select values for R1 and R2 that split the current between the left and right sides of the circuit in a proportion that enables the most economical choice of components. This is split, with R1, Q1, D3 and D4 passing 3.
The best thing is to buy a highly compatible adapter which will serve you even if you decide to purchase a new PC with the other operating system. Some operating systems support Plug-n-Play option e. If such an option is not available then you can get drivers on the official website or on the CD attached to the product.
Another important thing to take into account is a Bluetooth version. Bluetooth v4. Note that if your dongle has Bluetooth v4. It means that you can connect it to any other device with older Bluetooth versions. Class 1 adapters are suitable for industrial devices which need Bluetooth connectivity at long distances. As you can already guess this feature depends on the pre-cited characteristics. Bluetooth adapters of class 1 can have a transmission distance of up to feet.
Class 2 dongles usually offer an operation range of only feet. Still, always consider the quality of the connection. Sometimes devices with the same range may have different performance. Having a Bluetooth adapter like this one can be a lifesaver if you need a cheap device for versatile connections. If you have Windows 10 all you need to do to install this adapter and start enjoying its work is to plug it into a USB port. It supports Bluetooth 2. Besides, this network adapter has 3 Mbps data transfer rate and is quite easy to install.
The only thing here to remember is that its operation range, which reaches up to 33 feet, can be reduced if your laptop or PC USB port is surrounded by metal construction. Moreover, it is easy to use and comes with a three-year warranty that makes it a pretty good deal.
Besides, this dongle is compatible with Raspberry Pi. As this adapter supports Bluetooth 4. Still, this option is unavailable in case you have Windows 7 or lower. This Bluetooth adapter is also energy efficient.
Kinivo BTD can be easily connected almost with all Bluetooth devices such as headphones, headsets, mobile phones, printers, etc.
It is cheap, it offers a backward compatibility with Bluetooth V3. TP-Link UB offers a compact, sleek design, with an excellent transmission distance of up to 33ft and solid data transfer rate of 3Mbps that is mainly achieved thanks to the incorporation of EDR and A2DP technologies.
Moreover, this adapter comes with a very good two-year warranty and altogether offers excellent value for its price. In other words, if you are looking for a highly capable, as well as affordable BT device that has all the assets needed for the best Bluetooth adapter, TP-Link UB is the ultimate option and a piece of hardware that will never disappoint you. This tiny, ultra-small form factor device offers everything that a regular user might need, and much more. Moreover, its working range is up to 10m, while data transfer rate goes up to decent 3Mbps.
What, on the other hand, does make a difference, compared to the previous Bluetooth generation, are the interference levels that are drastically reduced in the case of BT 5. Moreover, this device is backward compatible — therefore, it can be used with previous BT iterations, but unfortunately, it can be installed only on Windows 7, 8, 8.
Bluetooth adapter is a great solution for old versions of laptops or PCs. It will easily connect your smartphone or headphones to the computer and let you enjoy gaming or movie to the full. Need one for my xp-pen tablet. Thanks for the recommendation of the two devices for Linux Plugable and Kinivo.
However, both of them are based on a Broadcom chip that requires the manual installation of proprietary firmware to work hopefully properly. I use with with my iMac El Capitan and it even communicates with my Apple Magic Mouse 2, which is very selective with Bluetooth adapters. My Mighty Mouse is sporadic.
Please note that Avantree long range bluetooth USB adapter is only for audio and not for data transfer. I bought one and only noticed after I used it. My fault for not paying attention to the long product name. Ive been looking to set up a lutris interface and it seems very awesome so far, think steam without some creapy company looking to make cash. Ubuntu are best supported in the linux world and all the ways to play weird games that support linux will support ubuntu first.
What should I do then? I want to enable bluetooth 5. Is there any options or am I fucked. But you can also try Bluetooth 5. But still, check the specs. If you have not received the confirmation message, please check your spam or junk mail folder.
Otherwise, fill out the form again with your correct e-mail address. Cookies are small text files that may be used by websites to improve the user experience. By placing cookies, we can provide you as user with an optimum experience. Using these cookies, we collect information about the use of our website.
In our privacy policy, we explain further what data we collect, how we collect it and what we do with it. Learn more about our cookie policy.
For the best experience on this site, please use our site with Edge, Chrome, Firefox, Opera or Safari. Microsoft recommends using Microsoft Edge as your default browser and supports Internet Explorer 11 which can be opened via Edge for backward compatibility for older web sites and apps only.
This product is no longer available in the current Trust assortment. Support options Drivers Download the latest software or driver. Manuals How does it work? Download the manual to find out. Size: Size: 0.
0コメント